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The Rock Climber's Training Manual, by Michael L. Anderson PhD, Mark L. Anderson
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Whether you climb 5.9 or 5.15, this book shows you how to immediately and continuously improve your climbing, providing a step-by-step, easy to follow action plan used by elite climbers.
The Rock Climber's Training Manual updates and expands on the renowned "Rock Prodigy" training method that has helped climbers around the globe advance through the grades. Whether new to climbing or a seasoned veteran, this book describes how to get stronger NOW and climb your dream routes.
-Detailed schedules prescribe daily training activities for beginner, intermediate and advanced climbers
-Training programs are tailored for bouldering, sport and traditional climbing
-Eleven exercise protocols clearly describe each training activity in detail
-Over 200 full color illustrations demonstrate proper techniques
-Meticulously researched, incorporating the latest advancements in sport science
-Presents exercises that are proven to be effective for climbers of all abilities -Includes ground-breaking coaching for Big Wall Free Climbing including training, strategy and tactics
- Sales Rank: #16568 in Books
- Size: One Size
- Color: One Color
- Brand: TRANGO
- Model: Trango
- Published on: 2014-03-15
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 1.00" h x 8.00" w x 11.00" l, 2.10 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 304 pages
- The definitive guide to the Rock Prodigy Training Method, this hard-hitting and direct training program guarantees that anyone who has hit a plateau in their climbing will send their hardest routes yet.
- Before developing their "Rock Prodigy" method, the authors had stalled out at 5.11 for years.
- Today the two brothers both red point 5.14c and are approached by climbing coaches across the country for training advice.
- Every copy includes a training log to help track your progression.
Most helpful customer reviews
12 of 13 people found the following review helpful.
Great for getting better at what you're already good at
By Hillary
This book is a good training guide if you are a "typical" male climber (use arms a lot, likes powerful routes on overhangs but isn't too great at crimps) or if you want to improve in styles you already are good at. However, I found it didn't do as well with my weaknesses as a 5.12 female climber who excels at vertical, crimpy, technical routes and wanted to work on overcoming my weakness at severe overhangs. For example, the "ARC" workout (15-30 mins on the wall, up and down climbing, 1-3 times per night) works on the kinds of routes you can climb 10 minutes on when you start the training, but for me, trying to learn overhang technique, I couldn't spend that long on the wall without getting too tired. This left "overhang" practice for the later stages of the training, but then I had no overhanging endurance and immediately doing power moves on overhanging walls really hurt my shoulders. If you are good at overhangs but find crimps and endurance difficult, this book is for you! Or, if you want to get better at styles you're already good at, this will work wonders. It left me being able to climb vertical walls all day (seriously, I rarely ever get tired now, which is kinda crazy) but still not able to work on my weaknesses. Another point of weakness is that the phases are so long you often lose a lot of the gains of the previous phase when you move on. This is especially noticeable during the hang board phase, as I feel crazy strong but I had lost a lot of my gained endurance. All this being said, I went from projecting 5.12a to on sighting 5.12a, coming near to on sighting 12.b, and projecting 5.13a--in my style.
9 of 9 people found the following review helpful.
Fantastic. From motivation to methodology
By Perry
Fantastic. From motivation to methodology, this book has it all. It is the next clear upgrade in climbing training literature since Performance Rock Climbing.
Not only does it presents a clear, concise, and informative approach to training, but it has useful information for everyone from the training neophyte to 5.14 crushers. The Training Manual provides not only complete plans, but the tools and information to modify the plans to suit the reader's goals and skills.
If you posses only one piece of training literature, let it be this. It will make you strong.
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
It's not easy to do the whole program
By A Customer
This book is a game changer as far as giving you a very clear and well written guide to training. It's not easy to do the whole program. ARC training can be mind numbingly boring and the lengthy period of time doing certain types of training can mean you aren't climbing with your pals as much. To put it very simply it works. The modulated training regimen will make you strong as heck and that strength will definitely apply to routes even though much of the training is not actually spent leading.
Just one word of advice / caution. The authors emphasize this over and over in the book but sometimes people think that it is just them being overly cautious. You really need to listen to them on this point, particularly if you're on the older side of climbers. You have to moderate the training. The book basically considers any climber that is leading less than 5.12 a beginner. That leaves many people in a large range that would consider their beginner workouts. Considering that the base workout can be quite hard, you really need to listen to your body and modify as needed. You may think that you can just do them anyway but the training gets progressively more difficult. Moderate and modify as you need, you'll still get a ton out of the training.
If you're plateau'ing around the high 10s to low 11s range and aren't improving like I was, get this book and do what it says. Read the whole thing and get to work.
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